bearded dragon care printer friendly

Introduction:
Inland Bearded dragons, (Pogona vitticeps) have become very popular in the reptile pet trade. They are very mild mannered and can become quite interactive with their owner. When born, bearded dragons are a little less than 4 inches in total length. With proper care, they will mature in 12 to 18 months and attain a length of around 18-24 inches. They are one of the best choices if you are looking for a pet to handle frequently. They even seem to develop a personality as they mature.

Housing:
Hatchlings may be housed in a 10-gallon aquarium or container of similar size. You want to avoid an enclosure that is too large, which may make it difficult for the baby dragon to find food, water, shelter, etc. At 6 months, they will require an enclosure somewhat larger, such as a 30-gallon tank. Adults require an enclosure around 4'x 2'. For one adult, a 55-gallon aquarium would be of minimum size. There are reptile enclosures of all sizes available commercially. Another alternative is to construct your own cage. One advantage to this is that you can design it to be integrated with a particular area of your home.
Once you decide on an enclosure, you must choose some type of floor covering. Newspaper is probably the most practical and economical, however, not very pleasing to look at. Paper towels also work well in small enclosures. Sand works well but should be used with caution when housing smaller dragons because of the risk of impaction. Commercially available substrates are readily available. Do not use cedar or wood chips.
When furnishing the dragon's cage, keep in mind they do climb. Provide some grapevine or a piece of driftwood. Rocks also work well and can be arranged under a spotlight to create a basking area. Live plants do not work well; the enclosure is too hot and dry for them to thrive. Even if they would do well, your dragon would value them more as a meal than ornamentation. Use common sense in maintaining the vivarium. Provide fresh water every other day, or if it becomes soiled. Clean fecal matter from substrate regularly.
Heat and lighting is very critical to reptile keeping. The primary heat source should be an incandescent light bulb or spot light placed in a reflective fixture. Clamp on "shop lights" work well. High UV-B or full-spectrum reptile bulbs should be used in this fixture. Basking lizards manufacture vitamin D3 when exposed to UV-B radiation from the sun. They need this vitamin to effectively absorb calcium. Lack of either will lead to a calcium deficiency.
The fixture can be placed on a screened lid over a rock or a piece of wood to create a basking site. Temperature here should be between 90-100F. This can be regulated by bulb wattage or the use of a dimmer switch. The rest of the enclosure should be around 80-85F. Nighttime temperature may safely drop down to 70F. "Under the tank" heaters work well for a secondary heat source. I do not recommend "heat rocks". They become too hot.

Feeding:
Dragons can be raised on crickets, mealworms, and certain plant foods. Food items should be supplemented with a calcium/D3 powder available at pet stores. Crickets should also be fed a high quality diet, which will benefit you dragon upon eating them. Wild-caught insects should be avoided due to the possible exposure to pesticides. However, if you do choose to use wild insects, avoid fireflies! They are toxic to dragons, and consuming one will kill your dragon.
One thing that is extremely important when feeding your dragon: Feed small dragons several small food items rather than one large one. A rule of thumb is to never feed a prey item to your dragon that is larger than the space between its eyes. Large, bulky prey items have an adverse effect on the nervous system of bearded dragons in someway. Animals that suffer this will display the extension and twitching of their hind legs soon after the meal. In most cases, the animal will die. DO NOT FEED LARGE PREY ITEMS TO JUVENILE BEARDED DRAGONS!
Provide a shallow dish low enough that your dragon can bend his head down into the container. Plastic lids from jars work great. Also keep in mind that many lizard species will refuse to drink from a dish. You will want to spray the cage lightly every day to provide water droplets that your dragon may lap up. Keep in mind that you do not want to create a humid environment for them.

Food Guidelines:
Hatchling to Two Months: Two to three week-old crickets, up to 3/8".
Dust crickets with D3/calcium supplement. Remove uneaten crickets. Offer finely chopped kale. Again, no prey item larger than the space between your dragons eyes.
Two to Four Months: Dusted three to four week old crickets, up to 1/2". Just molted mealworms. Offer twice a day. Mixed vegetables can be offered every other day.

Four Months to Adults: Dusted four to six week old crickets, mealworms, and vegetables.
Adults: Dusted six-week-old crickets, super worms, wax worms, hissing cockroaches, "pinky" mice, dry bearded dragon pellet food, and vegetables. Some vegetables include romaine lettuce, collard greens, kale, squash, red tip lettuce, cilantro, parsley, and endive. Avoid spinach and iceberg lettuce.

This information is provided based on our research and experience. Please keep in mind that it may vary slightly among individuals. As with any pet, be sure you thoroughly research its requirements before purchasing. Make certain you will be able to provide it with all its needs. Avoid “impulse buying”.

Reptiles readily carry salmonella. Although it does not affect them, it can be harmful to humans. Always be sure to wash your hands with an anti-bacterial soap after handling. Common sense is the best defense. Children should always be supervised when around reptiles.

Summary:
Adult size: 18-24"
Food: Crickets of appropriate size. Mealworms, vegetables, bearded dragon pellet food.
Longevity: 8 years.
Housing: Hatchlings; 10-gallon aquarium. One adult can be housed in a 55 gallon tank or 2'x4' enclosure.
Temperature: Basking area should be 90-100F. The rest of enclosure should be around 80-85F.
Handling: If you would like a pet that will tolerate handling, this is the one to get. Their docile demeanor has made them one of the preferred choices for reptile enthusiasts.
Care: Very easy to keep. Keep in mind that they will require a larger enclosure as the mature.